The Four C's of a Diamond

1. Cut
2. Color
3. Clarity
4. Carat Weight

1. Diamond Cut

There are eight basic cuts of a diamond which are described below:

• Round Brilliant
• Emerald Cut
• Princess Cut
• Heart Cut
• Oval Cut
• Marquise Cut
• Pear Cut
• Round Cut

The hearts, Marquise (Oval with pointed ends) are highly regarded as some of the most popular diamond cuts. However, the most popular would be the Princess and the Round Brilliant (R/B)

The J.C. Millennium is amongst the other rarer cuts for the round. The emerald cut is similar to that of a Radiant cut which is an Octagonal shape.

The cut of a diamond will depend on how many ‘facets’ there are.

There are many types of facets, for example, a standard Round Brilliant will have:

Upper:

1 Table facet
8 Star facets
8 Kite or Upper Main Facets
16 Upper Girdle facets
Total facets: 33 Crown Facets

The girdle or better known as the outer edge, depending on the diamond may have a frosted appearance.

The value of a diamond is not affected by the polished or faceted girdle. The girdle is valued according to thickness from: extremely thin, very thin, medium slightly thick, thick, very thick, and extremely thick. Only select the medium or try to get close as possible to it, do not select the thin, very thin, or extremely thick.

2. Color

For many years, diamonds have always had its own tradition in color better known as, white or clear. Diamonds do have color, which can be graded.

The alphanumeric scale, which is provided below is the most commonly used scale for judging the color of a diamond.

According to this particular scale, the white diamond is considered the best, and the grading starts at pure white and continues all the way to a yellow tint or color.

Here is the scale of the color grades a diamond will fall in:

Below consists of the scale of the different color grades as a diamond will fall in:

D-Pure white-the most prized color
E-Exceptional white-colorless group
F-Excellent white-colorless group
H-White-colorless group
I-Slightly tinted white / white when viewed from top
J-Slightly tinted white / commercial white
K-Tinted white / still acceptable white when mounted
L-Tinted white / still acceptable/needs yellow setting to look its best
M-Slightly yellowish / Tinted color–champagne
N-Slightly yellowish / Tinted color-champagne
(O-R)Yellowish / Tinted color
(S-Z) Yellowish / Tinted color

Fluorescence

Depending upon the ultra violet light, will determine the degree that diamonds fluorescence, which is two thirds of all diamonds. When looking at the diamond in a shop, you see that the florescence, compared to natural sunlight is very different, that is the reason why it is so important when shopping for a diamond to look at them in the natural light. Failing to follow this step could result in an unsatisfied customer after making a purchase and leaving the shop.

Diamonds with a strong fluorescence will show a bluish color in the sunlight, which can affect the color grading. A diamond visual appearance will always result in its price, this is why the florescence is a very important factor. A lower colored diamond, if strongly florescence, even if it’s at the bottom of the scale, can be offered at a higher price.

3. Clarity

Purity of a diamond is referred to as clarity. Minute imperfections exist in most diamonds. Depending on how clear the diamonds is, will always determine the grading of its purity, which always results in the imperfections in the diamond.

A top graded diamond with no imperfections or inclusions is better known or classified as internally flawless (IF). An internally flawless diamond would be considered extremely rare and would be high in price, compared to a diamond that has many imperfections.

Grading scale below:

• (IF) would be internally flawless, and have no inclusions, perfect white
• (VVS1) and (VVS2) would have extremely small inclusions, six of a needle pick.
• (VS1) and (VS2) are also very small inclusions and very different to use.
• (SI1) and (SI2) would be tiny and easy to use.
• (I1) is small and easily recognized.
• (I2) and (I3) would have larger and numerous inclusions, and immediately recognized.

Poor polishing and natural causes have been known to create external blemishes in diamonds.

Blemishes and inclusions are so small and rarely have a negative effect on the actual beauty of a diamond.

4. Carat Weight

Known to man, diamonds are the heaviest and densest material. Diamonds are always weighed in carats. (.2grams) is considered a carat, and 5 carat would be considered a gram. Although the diamond is very small, it’s still considered very large in diamond terms.

Diamond carats are divided into points, and for every carat, there is 100 points. For example, 1 point is .002 of a gram, which is considered very small.

Below consists of a scale that shows the different weight of diamonds.

Diamonds should be accurately weighed on an electronic scale due to the minute difference in the weight of most diamonds, and this should be done to the nearest 1000th of a carat (.001). Stones are always rounded to the nearest 1000th, whether it’s up or down.

A certificate is the other factor in considering weight.

When ever assessment and weighing is considered at a laboratory, to confirm assessment, a certificate should be issued. No diamond should ever be purchased without a certificate of confirmation.

Code - Laboratories:

• ADL - Antwerp Diamond Laboratory
• AGA - American Gem Appraisal Laboratories
• AGL - Fifth Avenue Gem Laboratories Inc.
• CIB - CIBJO (Europe)
• CSA - Jeweler Council of South Africa
• DGL - Diamond Grading Laboratories (London)
• EGI - European Gemological Institute (Antwerp)
• EGL - European Gemological Institute (Antwerp & London)
• PNF - P N Ferstenberg Pbv A
• GAG - Gesellschaft fur Angewandte Gemology
• GAN - Gemological Institute of Antwerp
• GIA - Gemological Institute of America
• GII - National Gemological Institute of Israel
• GIL - Gem Information Laboratory
• GTL - Gem Testing Laboratory of Great Britain
• NGL - Northern Gemological Laboratories (UK)
• HRD - Diamond High Council (Antwerp)
• HRG - Heinz R Gartner, DGEMG, FGA (Germany)
• IGI - International Gemological Institute (Antwerp)
• PSL - Precious Stone Laboratory (London)
• VPT - Verena Pagel-Theisen, DGEMG, FGA (Germany)
• WG - Werner Galia, DGEM, (Germany)

All diamonds that you buy should have a certificate from the above laboratories.